Tom Germain

Tom Germain is the owner and main author of ocolombia.com. A Canadian consultant and writer and serial expat currently living in Colombia.

Home page: http://www.tomgermain.com

Posts by Tom Germain

The Month of Decibel in Colombia

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I have been away from Medellin since November, due to return in January. While I miss my wife and child, I’m not sure if I miss this time of the year in Colombia, which is sheer mayhem!

Fireworks over Medellin. Photo by Daniel Echeverri

It starts November 30th, when the skies over the entire Aburra valley erupts into a scene from Bagdad circa 1991. Fireworks explode continuously wherever you look, and thousands of hot air balloons zip across a thousand feet up. Christmas means pyrotechnics in Colombia, even if prohibited, and holiday celebrations go from November 30th till the first week of January. During this time, people will light up a prodigious amount of fireworks, including giant firecrackers which resonate like dynamite and could blow your hand off (as happens a dozen times a year to careless kids). Now, we all like fireworks, but sleep is difficult if not impossible at this time of year!

To be fair, some cities, Bogota in particular, have managed to curtail the sale and usage of  illegal fireworks, but the bylaws in Medellin seem to have made no difference. Everybody in the area knows of the costly fires caused by hot air balloons falling into buildings, such as the Exito (the big department store chain) warehouse which burned to the ground a few years ago, and everybody knows of dozens of people seriously injured every year, but a certain segment of this society cannot be deprived of the pleasure of blowing things up for Jesus and the Virgin!

Also during this time of the year, every neighbor seems to be competing to make the noisiest party. Our gated community’s security gave up long ago trying to get anybody to respect the curfew, so on they go, sound systems blaring all night long in their parking area or outdoor patio, causing windows to rattle in our unit. The worst part is that they love to sing along with their favorite songs, invariably way off key! My wife is at wit’s end from lack of proper rest. I suggested she go clanging pots and pans during the day when the perpetrators slumber, but I suspect that would not bother them in the least! The freezing temperatures I am currently enduring in Canada do not seem so bad in comparison!

December is also the month for the “alumbrados” across the valley. These are the most spectacular arrangements of millions of Christmas lights you will see anywhere, organized by the municipalities themselves. I cannot deny that this in itself is worth a visit to Medellin, but if you do go, forget about sleeping unless you are normally a party zombie anyway!

 

Will Tomorrow be Summer or Winter?

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If you hear a Colombian talking about “verano” and “invierno”, summer and winter, he or she is not referring to seasons, but rather weather. If it is raining, it is winter, while if it is sunny, it is summer. Thus yesterday could have been summer and today is winter. Truth be told, in a 100 percent tropical country like Colombia, there aren’t any real seasons. There are times of the year where the tendency is for it to rain, although for several years now the weather has been impossibly unpredictable.

Bogota - Photo by Iijjccoo

Even though Colombia is geographically very tropical, it is wrong to assume that anywhere you visit in this country will be as hot as a tin roof in the scorching sun! While it is true that the closer you are to sea level the more unbearably toasty the climate will be, Colombia’s forefathers founded many of their biggest cities high up in the mountains, where the air is much cooler. Thus, in Bogota, the capital, at over 2,625 meters (about 8,600 feet) you are hardly ever going to experience a hot day (and no, you will not be gasping for air), but will most certainly have to wear a jacket virtually every day. Medellin, at 1,495 meters (about 4,900 feet), and Bucaramanga at 959 meters (3,146 feet)  tend to have a much more agreeable, generally warm but rarely scorching temperature year-round. Cali is at about the same level as Bucaramanga but its average temperature is several degrees higher than the latter. The northern coastal cities of Cartagena, Barranquilla and Santa Marta, are at sea level and consequently produce weather that will have you sweating profusely day and night!

Just remember that Colombia is built from the top down!

About Colombian Women

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I periodically get inquiries from bozos asking me about Colombian women. They basically want to know if they are “easy”.  In short, these guys are so inept at seducing women that they are willing to travel thousands of miles to meet Latinas who are just dying to fall into bed with a gringo, any gringo. All right then, I will tell you about Colombian women…

Colombian model "Vanamar"

Yes, it is true, they are passionate and not sexually hung-up despite being very Catholic. Yes, it is true that a large percentage of them are hauntingly beautiful. I, for one, can say that the most lovely women I have ever set my eyes upon were all Colombian. Perhaps it is the mix of races: indigenous, European, black, and sometimes Middle Eastern, that produced such exquisite features. Yes, it is true that they are very, very feminine. Yes, there are lots of Sofia Vergaras and Shakiras in Colombia!

All of it is true. However, they are not whores, unless that is what they do for a living! She will not jump into bed with you just because you are a gringo! She will be passionate with her husband or boyfriend, not a stranger.  If you want to conquer the heart of a Colombiana, you will have to seduce her the same way you would a gringa, sorry! Family ties are very strong in Colombia, so you’ll also have to seduce her folks!

Of course, like anywhere else, there are girls from a poor background that are looking for a way to climb socially and economically. They can spot a sucker from two thousand miles away. I have known more than one gringo who fell into one of these Venus fly traps. Their story never ends prettily, thousands and thousands of dollars later. If you are just looking to get used and be made a fool of, you will be indulged!

In conclusion, come to Colombia to discover its rich culture and its natural splendor, otherwise, there is no reason for you to bother!

A Lesson in Paisa Speak

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So, you think you’re fluent in Spanish? That’s nice, but just like someone from New Jersey might have a little trouble understanding the speech of someone from Jersey, the Channel island, or vice-versa, you might need a helping hand in grasping the Spanish dialect spoken in Medellin, Perreira or Manizales.

The “Paisa” version of Spanish bears some resemblance to the Castellano of Argentina. They use the vos instead of “tu”, and veni instead of “ven”, for example, but the many uniquely Argentine words and expressions are absent as is their peculiar enunciation (such as the Argentine ll sounding more like a sh). Paisas speak rapidly, at the tip of the lips, truncating many words, particularly those ending in ‘ado‘.

Here’s a short guide on some of the words and expressions you will hear frequently and what they mean…

Q’hubo? (sounds like “Kee oo-bo”): This is a common greeting, simply means “what’s new?”.

Estas amañao? (Aye-stass ah-mah-gnah-oh?): This will be asked of you by new people you meet. They mean “amañado”, or simply if you’re happy here (in Colombia). Of course, you should always answer enthusiastically “Siii, me gusta mucho!

Que pecao! (Kay pay-cow!) : They mean to say “que pecado“, or “what a sin“. The real meaning is “what a shame“, usually to express pity or empathy.

Culi- cagao / cagada (Coolie- caw-gow / cah-ga-da) : They mean  “culo cagado“, meaning “shit filled ass!” Strangely this is not a vulgar expression and is commonly used to say child or children.

Pa’ (pah) : A mangled version of the word “para“.

Comida (Co-mee-dah) : You think they mean “food“, but they might be talking about dinner. Breakfast is still “desayuno” and lunch is still “almuerzo“, luckily!

Ahorita (Ah-o-ree-tah) : You may know this is a dimunitive of “ahora“, meaning “now“, but what they really mean is “later“. This one had me standing like a fool waiting for something to happen until I caught on! Unless they say “ahora mismo“, don’t hold your breath!

Mono : I get this one all the time. “Hey mono!“. They’re not calling me a monkey! They mean “blond“, although you’ll often hear someone affectionately calling a dark haired friend “mono“, which is simply Colombian humor!

A la orden : You’ll hear this in shops. It simply means “at your service“.

Cancelar (Can-cell-ar) : This one confused the heck out of me initially. They mean “pay for it“.

iñora (ignore-ah) : They just mean to say “señora“, or “lady“, not ignore!

Buseta (Boo-say-tah): The bus. Public transport tends to be mostly via small, colorful buses, some of which are mere mini vans.

Rumbiar (Room-bee-ar) : To go out, to party. They do a lot of that!

Arriero (R-ee-aye-ro) : The traditional peasant with his donkey.

Parcero (Par-cey-ro) : Buddy, friend. Short form of this is “parce”.

Guache (Goo-ah-tchey) : rude or vulgar person.

Chimba (tcheem-bah) : swear word, like saying “shit!” — don’t use!

Me cayo gordo! (Mey Caw-yo gore-doh) : Basically means “I can’t stand him!”

Guevon / guevona (Goo-ay- von / von-ah) : idiot.

Chevere (Tchay-vay-ray) : Cool, fun. This is also used in the rest of Colombia and in Venezuela.

Bacano / a (Bah-Caw- no / nah): Really good / cool.

Carro (Caw-ro) : Vehicle. In other Latin-American countries it might be “coche” while carro is a carriage, but in Colombia, coche is a carriage!

Saco : Coat or cardigan.

Cola : Derriere. In the restaurant, don’t ask for a cola, but rather a Coca-Cola, or just coca!

Bomba : Not a bomb, but rather the gas station or the gas pump.

Pichar (Pee-tchar) : vulgar, for the act of having sex.

Conchudo / a (Con-tchoo- do / dah) : A person who shamelessly takes advantage of others.

 

There’s many more, of course, but I reckon that will be for a follow-up article.

It’s a Boy…No, it’s a Girl…No, it’s…

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On an episode of the hit comedy Modern Family, Gloria, played by Colombia native Sofia Vergara, has her stepson’s adopted baby daughter’s ears pierced. The girl’s parents, a gay couple, gasp in horror and cry out that she’s mutilated their baby. The joke is based on the Colombian tradition that all girls have their ears pierced at birth. That is, except my own daughter, which has led to absurd reactions from our fellow citizens…

Is it a girl?” or “how old is he?” we get asked almost every day, people seeming to be oblivious to the strong visual clues provided by our daughter’s feminine attire. She’s wearing a dress with plenty of pink and the word “Princess” splashed across the front, cute little pumps on her feet,  and even ribbons in her hair and yet they’re still unable to ascertain that she’s female. They don’t see the mandatory earrings, so to them that must mean she’s a he. My wife and I try not to respond with sarcasm, although it’s a strong temptation. We do wonder, however, what they make of men who wear earrings?

Yes, I expressed my dissent when the women in my extended family insisted that my little girl’s ears be pierced. I guess I was haunted by thoughts of those momzillas who give their daughters’ the appearance of tiny hussies for the purposes of absurd beauty contests! My kid will get her ears pierced when she herself decides, if at all!

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